
Document 72 Hours — 2017

Christmas Day at Narita Airport. For three days, we watched the immigration checkpoint, a place where passports and travel intentions of those entering Japan are scrutinized. There were young travelers on holiday, eager to reunite with love…

In Omiya, Saitama, a hub for trains linking the city with the north, resides a café of singular character just beyond the vibrant downtown. Its interior overflows with intriguing antiques, and each of the three hundred dishes on the menu is…

In the tropical city of Miyazaki, a peculiar piano sits nestled in a lively corner, open to all. Anyone can play it, at any hour. An old man, pausing for a bus, might coax a children's tune from it with a single finger, while a young man be…

Beppu is a haven of thermal springs, its reputation as a city landmark anchored by a 138-year-old bathhouse. This single, time-worn bath is a gathering place for those seeking a morning ritual before work, others drawn for therapeutic water…

In a Yokosuka park, the imposing forms of warships dominate the view. Here, local residents enjoy leisurely walks alongside families of U.S. military personnel, who allow their children to play freely. Enthusiasts gather, drawn by the sight…

In Tokyo's Kita Ward, a modest shop nestled within a traditional shopping district draws a steady stream of a thousand customers each day. Here, socks, undergarments, and sleepwear are offered at an astonishingly low price – sixty or eighty…

In Gifu Prefecture, Chiyobo Inari, often called Ochobo-san, presides over commerce. A kushikatsu restaurant, gleaming like gold, stands prominently near the shrine's entrance. Adorned in gold from walls to tables for good fortune, the estab…

The zoo has remained closed since the Kumamoto earthquake last April. In the absence of animal exhibits, a nearby walking path offering glimpses of giraffes and elephants enjoying the sunlight has become a favored destination. Residents on …

Hong Kong, a city poised on the edge of tomorrow, houses a peculiar landmark on its main thoroughfare: Chungking Mansions. Its labyrinthine corridors are a vibrant mix of currency exchange bureaus and eateries, while the upper levels overfl…

In Ota Ward, a singular "seven-way intersection" exists. Here, seven roads converge, a constant flow of bicycles, cars, and pedestrians weaving through the space. The sheer number of intersecting streets renders traffic lights impractical, …

The familiar scent of leather hung in the air during three days spent within the walls of a venerable bag shop in Ameyoko, Tokyo. Parents and children buzzed with anticipation, selecting new school bags; a man contemplated a cavernous pack,…

For three days, the quiet of a funeral home lingered near Shin-Yokohama Station. Here, they conducted understated, intimate services for small gatherings. Families honoring the wishes of those who preferred not to impose a grand ceremony up…

A short hour's drive from Osaka Station, Mount Kongō offers an accessible haven for leisurely hikes, complete with a convenient ropeway. Its most popular feature is arguably the live camera positioned at the summit. This camera captures an …

In Fukushima's Yoru no Mori district, famed for its cherry blossoms, venerable trees trace a 2.4-kilometer path. Though the nuclear accident deterred visitors, the area briefly awakens with life each spring as former residents return. This …

A vast array of craft and fashion supplies awaits within this Shinjuku emporium, boasting a selection of half a million items. From vibrant textiles to elegant buttons and elaborate cosplay wigs, the store caters to a diverse clientele. One…

Each year, over a thousand individuals journey to this Kyoto Zen temple seeking a period of disciplined practice. Its enduring appeal lies in the accessibility of participation; accommodations are available from a few thousand yen per night…

Within a building in Shinjuku, the muffled murmur of intimate exchanges – often between men and women – drifts from partitioned booths reminiscent of a net cafe. These "private room-style marriage counseling spaces" have enjoyed popularity …

Nestled in a residential district of Shibuya, Tokyo, a pure white dome emits curious sounds. This is the "Tokyo Camii," Japan's largest mosque. Its visitors are a diverse tapestry: Bangladeshi sushi chefs, Turkish kebab vendors, and Japanes…

In Yamagata Prefecture, along the Sea of Japan, lies an aquarium renowned for housing one of the world's most extensive collections of jellyfish. Its centerpiece is a vast, five-meter tank teeming with five thousand moon jellyfish. Visitors…

In Tosu, a city in Kyushu where the constant flow of large trucks shapes the landscape of warehouses, a truck station offers respite to the drivers who frequent it. More than just parking and sustenance, the station provides dining and bath…

Perched atop a department store in Matsuyama, Ehime Prefecture, stands a Ferris wheel familiar to every resident. Its slow rotation takes fifteen minutes, offering a panoramic view of the entire city from its highest point. A diverse crowd…

Kitakyushu City forged its reputation on steel. The bar sits on a street a little worn around the edges, tucked away from the main entertainment area. At its heart is a curious machine that dispenses drinks automatically, offering a remarka…

Nestled in the Tokyo suburbs, Tama New Town is a community of over two hundred thousand residents. This episode unfolds within a colossal secondhand shop, its 1,500 tsubo (roughly 5,000 square meters) sales floor dominating the town center.…

Perched on a hillside overlooking the sea in Kanagawa Prefecture, the care facility offers a haven of quietude for its residents. An average age of eighty-four marks the lives of over four hundred and fifty individuals who have, for some, m…

Deep within the Chinese mountains, a national highway winds past a peculiar family restaurant. In the late hours, it emanates an otherworldly glow of seven colors. Its facade is rumored to mimic a bandit's fortress, boasting extravagant dis…

Summer Koshien. In Fukuoka, a region renowned for its powerful high school baseball programs, East Chiku High School achieved a historic first, securing a representative berth after 21 years. Anticipating a vibrant atmosphere, I journeyed t…

Akita in the heart of summer transforms with the sudden appearance of vibrant parasol stalls. They blossom across the prefecture – in supermarket parking lots, along national highways, at popular destinations, and even in remote, rocky land…

In Tokyo’s vibrant Yurakucho district, a rare sight persists: a street shoe polishing shop, frequented by businessmen. There, skilled artisans can restore even the most battered footwear to a gleaming shine in a mere ten minutes. The motiva…

Fussa, a suburb of Tokyo and home to the U.S. military's Yokota Air Base, has long been a place where American culture has flourished, evident in its music and fashion. Here, a rock festival has thrived for over three decades. Distinct from…

Though exposed to summer heat and winter chill, many motorcyclists would not dream of another way to travel. Some forgo daily coffee purchases to save for their machines. In Tokyo, a sprawling parts store draws riders seeking accessories or…

What happens when the lifeline to the world vanishes? Our story unfolds within a smartphone repair shop in Shibuya, Tokyo, a place where the clientele carries a spectrum of concerns. There's the young man desperate to salvage cherished phot…

As autumn deepens, Kyoto embraces its holiday. Within a library nestled in a bustling tourist district, silence reigns. Patrons settle into their individual spaces, a solemn hush observed. Their motivations are diverse: some navigate the pr…

Ten thousand kilometers separate the Canary Islands from Japan. Each September, tuna fishing vessels registered in Japan arrive at the islands' port. There, they undergo repairs and replenish their supplies, preparing for a voyage into the …

In Osaka's Umeda district, an English conversation school distinguishes itself through personalized instruction. The murmur of hesitant English fills the air from the individual booths, a blend of aspirations and anxieties. Here, a salaryma…

At three thousand yen per night, the guest house offers modest lodging in Kawasaki, a convenient location near the city center. Housing up to two hundred guests, it draws a varied clientele: travelers, certainly, but also those seeking affo…

Saitama City, a sprawling suburb of 1.3 million residents, offers respite in unexpected places. Within a massage parlor nestled amongst houses, people seeking relief from weary bodies arrive at all hours. Their aches and pains stem from div…

Amidst our ever-digital lives, one establishment devours more than ten thousand sheets of paper daily: a twenty-four-hour print shop nestled in Ikebukuro. Specializing in intricate tasks like poster production and bookbinding – endeavors be…

Chichijima Island, a remote outpost in the Ogasawara chain, lies a full day and a half from Tokyo by boat. The island's roughly two thousand inhabitants eagerly await the weekly supply ship. Even at this distance of a thousand kilometers fr…

As the herring season begins and winter tightens its icy hold on northern Japan, the residents of Nemuro, a fishing town, find solace in a local convenience store—a place offering comforting meals with a distinctive touch. The store, situat…

